A professionally sharpened knife isn't just about having a sharp edge. It's about safety, efficiency, and prolonging the life of your knives. A sharp knife requires less force, leading to better control and a lower risk of accidents. Professional sharpening ensures the correct angle is maintained and removes the minimum amount of metal necessary, preserving the integrity of your blades for years to come.

In most cases the answer to this question is this…  How long have you had them and how often do you use them? Think of something else you use as often and have had as long… 

If sharpening isn’t right for you, we have hundreds of new knives available to buy and try in our shop. (All new knife purchases include one free sharpening!)

he frequency depends on how often you use them. For a home cook who uses their knives regularly, we recommend professional sharpening every 6-12 months. For professional chefs or those who do a lot of cooking, every 3-6 months is more appropriate. Listen to your knife: if it's struggling to slice through a tomato cleanly, it's time for a sharpen.

This is a common and important question!

• Sharpening removes a small amount of metal from the blade to create a new, sharp edge. It's a more intensive process that's done less frequently.

• • Honing(using a honing steel) doesn't remove metal. It realigns the microscopic edge of the blade that has bent over with use. This should be done frequently to maintain the edge between sharpening.  Honing requires proper technique and a good foundation (original edge) to work on.

Yes, we can! We use specialized tools to sharpen each individual serration on your knife, restoring its cutting power. Please note that this process is more time-consuming than sharpening a straight-edged knife.

Yes, we do. Ceramic knives require special diamond abrasives for sharpening due to their extreme hardness. Please note that ceramic knives are more brittle than steel knives, and we handle them with the utmost care.

Yes, in most cases we can. Please bring in your damaged knife, and we'll assess the extent of the damage and let you know what is possible and what the cost will be. Small chips and broken tips are usually no extra charge. 

1. Inspection: We first inspect your knife for any damage or special needs.

2. Grinding: Using a low-speed, water-cooled grinding wheel (or belt system, depending on the knife), we carefully reshape the edge to the correct angle. The slow speed prevents the blade from overheating, which can compromise the steel's temper.

3. Honing & Polishing: We progressively use finer grits to refine the edge and remove any burrs.

• 4. Stropping: We finish the process by stropping the blade on a leather strop to achieve a razor-sharp, mirror-like finish.

• Small Knives (e.g., paring knives, up to 4 inches): $6

• Medium Knives (e.g., utility knives, up to 8 inches): $10

• Large Knives (e.g., chef knives, up to 12 inches): $10

• Scissors (Fabric & Utility) $12

• Extra Large Knives & Specialty Blades (e.g., cleavers, serrated knives, >12 inches): $10-$15

• Pocket Knives and Fixed blades$15 (includes cleaning, oiling and tuning aka SPA service)

• Knife Thinning $50

We offer discounts for orders larger than 10 and have special rates for our regular commercial clients. 

All kitchen knife sharpening includes a velvet lined ABS Sleeve for protection both for and from the knife. 

Don’t see it here? I sharpen lots of other things..  Send me a message for my other prices. Here is a pricing menu

We usually sharpen and return your knives within 1 business day. For large or special orders, we'll give you a time estimate when you bring them in.

Yes, If you schedule an appointment you can get walk-in service for your knives or other tools to be sharpened right there in front of you! It will take an avg 3-4 min per knife and there is no extra charge for this service. Call or text us at (602) 688-9170 to schedule.

To keep your newly sharpened knives in peak condition:

• Wash by hand: Never put them in the dishwasher, as the high heat and harsh detergents can dull the edge and damage the handle.

• Dry immediately: After washing, dry the knife thoroughly to prevent rust. In our Arizona climate with our water, I really can’t stress this enough!

• Store properly: Use a knife block, a magnetic strip, or blade guards to prevent the edge from hitting other utensils, which can dull it.

• • Use a honing steel: Use a honing steel or ceramic rod to keep the edge aligned. (Note: It is imperative to execute this process accurately to avoid any adverse effects. If you aren’t sure about honing, just call us.. we will be happy to walk you through it)

Sunday. Closed

3057 N 30th Pl, Mesa AZ 85213 or to Shop.razorsharpaz.com to purchase new knives.

Most home sharpening tools and other sharpeners use belts, aluminum oxide, or similar methods that can grab the carbides in the metal — the very hard particles that hold the edge — and tear them out of the surrounding steel. That's essentially softening the edge exactly where you need it to be hardest. Factories lean on belts for the same reason: grit progression and diamond wheels cost more time and money.

My wheels are large in diameter, so the curve where the wheel meets the edge is extremely shallow — invisible to the eye, but it's what protects the edge instead of softening it, and that shows up in performance.

The wheel material matters just as much. Diamond abrasive is usually electroplated onto a nickel coating — the diamond sits on the surface, and once those particles break off, the wheel is done. Mine are different: a resin bond impregnated with diamond all the way through, so as the wheel wears, fresh diamond keeps surfacing underneath and it keeps cutting like new. It's the same technology used to grind drill bits for oil derricks — cutting-edge, and still uncommon in knife sharpening.

That's what makes the difference with carbides. Because the diamond is embedded in the resin rather than sitting on top, the wheel cuts through the carbides along with the surrounding steel instead of ripping them out — so they stay intact right in the edge, rather than leaving gaps behind. That's what enhances both strength and edge retention, instead of quietly undermining them.